1. Puppies cry. It can range from mild to “fierce”; vary in time length and intensity. If they are not hurt, hungry or need to potty- ignore it. If you give in to puppy crying or you get emotional-you can create a very BAD habit. It can also create anxiety in your puppy. Just like a toddler, your puppy needs to learn to self-entertain, that alone time is perfectly ok and that there is a time for everything.

2. There is a “honeymoon” period. This can last from 1 day to a few weeks. During the “honeymoon” puppies tend to be EXTRA good, and try extra hard to please you. Puppies can and usually will have a regression period. This is usually short-lived, and not much different than a testy toddler trying to get their way. Not every dog goes through this, however it is common around the 6 month and 1 year marks.

3. Puppy toys, comfort items, blankets, towels or rugs can seriously harm your puppy (or dog). If puppy shreds a cloth like material and eats it, it can bind and knot their intestines. It can even kill them! If you choose to use these items, use caution and check them very regularly. Any signs of wear- discard the item.

4. Gross mentions- Worms, parasites and other bugs-these are VERY common and can be picked up ANYWHERE. From a puddle in the driveway to digging in the yard. Don’t freak out. Keep your puppy on a deworming program and as soon as they are old enough add flea and tick control. Talk with your veterinarian to determine the best course of actions for you and your new family member.

5. Communicable diseases- Do not take your puppy out in public places and consider limiting visitors until they have completed all of their vaccinations with your veterinarian. Puppies’ immune systems are still building and you could be exposing your puppy into unnecessary risk factors. Dog parks, Groomers, Doggie daycares, Pet- and pet friendly stores are considered higher risk.

1. Paper towels
2. Wet wipes
3. Regular towels
4. Plastic bags to put any mess into

1. A puppy crate, car harness and maybe a family member/friend to help with your puppy on the way home.
2. Longer drives may want to bring a small dish and bottled water if you will be taking a potty break.
3. Do NOT let your puppy be free/loose while driving.

As a general rule a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age.

 • Two months: two hours 
 • Three months: three hours 
 • By six months of age generally they can hold it as long as an adult dog 

During the initial time of getting to know your puppy, and your puppy learning your expectations some people prefer to tether their puppy to them.  This may help with potty training. Most importantly you have to remember during this exciting time of bringing your new family member home is just like having a brand new toddler baby running around without a diaper! My personal observations have been water or food in; water or food out. In other words, EVERY time your puppy eats or drinks show them your preferred potty area as soon as they are done.  As puppies grow and are able to hold it longer, you may need to do this more frequently for a short while. When they have the urge they will normally dance, sniff and go in circles. Watch for your puppies cues. We have had several people also bell train their puppies to use it! When you have taken them where you want them to go –use your potty word.  (Go potty, use it, go pee, abracadabra) when they ring the bell, use it outside or on the puppy pad, whatever your preferred method is-get excited and praise them! You can offer a treat as well if you like, but generally doodles are so geared towards pleasing you, just your being happy is enough reward.

Patience is required. Just like young children learning to potty train, some get it faster than others.

Pick up your puppy’s water dish about two to three hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they’ll need to use it during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don’t make a big deal of it; otherwise they will think it is time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk to or play with your puppy, take them out and then return them to bed.

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they’re indoors.  If/when you can’t keep puppy with you, we recommend using the crate. Crate training is a great tool in potty-training, creating a safe den, and structure in expressing your expectations. 

Tethering:  tying a leash to you to keep puppy from wondering off.

Benefits:  

 • Helps establish alpha role  
 • Puppy looks to you for direction 
 • Promotes deeper bonding 
 • Preventative in puppy getting access to things that may hurt them, or are off limits

Drawbacks: 

 • Tripping
 • Dragging 
 • Protesting may occur

When you can’t supervise, confine. Meaning, when you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, or just need a break, restrict them to an area small enough that they won’t want to go potty there.  Your initial crate should be big enough to turn around and lay down comfortably. Anything bigger and they may decide the corner/ back half is the potty zone. 

Some things to consider when choosing and setting up your crate: 

• Some crates have dividers, but if a puppy does have an accident it is likely to end up in the entire crate. 

• Anything you add to the crate should be safe for puppy. If they can shred or eat it; this can be harmful. Check all toys, comfort items and bedding regularly.

• If your puppies’ crying bothers you, choose a quiet out of the way area. (Laundry room, extra bedroom, somewhere with less activity in your house.)

• NEVER reward the puppy for crying! This reinforces a bad behavior and can cause anxiety in the long term. 

• You can give your puppy a treat when going in the crate to reinforce it as a positive place. (Place the treat in the back of the crate, in a safe chew toy, or give AFTER the puppy is completely inside. 

• Puppy safe chew toys can help puppies alleviate boredom.

• Puppies SHOULD not be over stimulated. They need naps and down time just like a human toddler.  The crate provides this and soon will become their personal space.

• Name your crate so the puppy identifies it with you. (We call ours “house”.)

The best suggestion we can give you is to get down on the floor and look around! This will give you a visual of everything your brand new baby will see – and just like any toddler, they will want to taste, touch, smell and play with what they find! Pay special attention to:

     • Electrical Cords
     • Electronics (a cell phone is not just a potential hazard, but a very expensive chew toy to a puppy)
     • Plants
     • Shoes, socks, etc.
     • Children’s toys (puppy doesn’t know the difference)
     • Table and chair legs (puppies should not be given an opportunity to use furniture for teething needs)
     • Hazardous chemicals, foods or products. (See other consumable/non-consumable lists for more details on this)

We recommend that you keep your puppy with you at all times and in a puppy proof zone when you can’t supervise them. Suggestions include a gated and safe puppy proof room, a puppy playpen, crate or “house”. It takes time for all these new and exciting smells and temptations to wain. Remember your puppy has endless curiosity like a toddler!

General Guidelines while you are teaching your puppy about chewing.  

These are important socialization skills and necessary house manners.  Like a toddler, almost everything goes into their mouth and those items could quickly become a very real hazard!  

Don’t yell. Be firm and use a louder voice to say “No”.  If the puppy fails to abide by the no, we use the three strikes and you’re out method. After the third time, the puppy goes to their house for a time out. Puppy will probably cry, bark and carry on- don’t worry, it’s okay. This is just like a toddler throwing a tantrum. Don’t give in. Just be consistent, and try again later. 

Some people prefer the distraction method. This means you offer them one of their toys or something approved for chewing.  This method has been successful for many.  If the distraction method is not successful we suggest following up with a time out.

These are our preferred methods. A quick internet search or talking with your veterinarian can give you many more options if you find you need a different approach.

• Never let puppy chew or lick your fingers (or anywhere else). It may be “sweet” when they are small, but this teaches them that you and any other person can be chewed on. You, your family and friends are not chew toys. We have never known an aggressive doodle, but allowing this behavior may create future problems that could be extremely difficult to break.  A cute toe nibble could turn into an accident fast. Just DON’T allow it. 

• Don’t Allow Others to encourage nibbling either. This can be difficult, but you are training your puppy and they need to know that the rules don’t change. 

• Medications, Cleaning Products, etc. should always be put up or made inaccessible to the puppy. 

• Alcohol and tobacco products, vaping supplies etc.  We mention these specifically because even though it may not apply to you directly, you can’t always control what your dog is exposed to in public or accidently by a visitor.  Be aware of what is on the ground, or possibly accessible to your pet.  

• Old Shoes, socks or other used items should not be handed down to your puppy for chewing. This will ultimately confuse them on boundaries and poses a real health hazard.

• Off limit household items should be taken away, put up, or sternly and loudly say “NO”. 

This list was compiled from several sources and may be incomplete.

 Check with your veterinarian for a complete guide.

*Alcohol *Avocado *Baby Food *Caffeine *Candy *Chives *Citrus *Chocolate *Coffee *Coconut *Coconut Oil *Cooked Bones *Garlic *Grapes *Green Tomatoes *Lemons *Limes *Macadamia Nuts *Milk and Dairy *Nuts *Onions *Raisins *Salt and Salty Snack Foods *Spices (generally) *Tea’s *Xylitol *Yeast Dough